Zanzibar is an island 22 miles off the coast of east-central Africa. Once a sovereign state, in 1964, it incorporated into Tanganyika to form the United Republic of Tanzania. Much like Seychelles, Zanzibar is the “Maldives” of Africa, because of its crystal blue waters, white sand beaches, and spices!
Historically, however, it was the heart of the east-central African slave trade from the early 1600s to the late 1800s. Its well-preserved slave markets and popular Prison Island (“Changu”) have made it a top destination for more than a good tan! While most who visit likely don’t qualify as dark tourists – those who intentionally travel to places associated with death and tragedy – many book tours with these “darker” activities included to learn more about the history of Zanzibar. There certainly isn’t anything wrong with that. Unless . . . some people are embellishing the history for profit!
My experience with dark tourism in Zanzibar
I’m going to be honest here. I never thought that could happen before my trip to Zanzibar. If a tourist activity wasn’t authentic, people would know. Right? Or as the gen-z’s put it – CANCELED. In my pre-departure, social media sleuthing of Zanzibar, historical tours came highly recommended.
I tried to avoid booking a tour with slave trade excursions in the itinerary, but almost all reputable tours of Stone Town include at least one. So, I didn’t even go to the infamous Prison Island. Therefore, I am not claiming to speak for all sites on the island – just the Old Slave Market/Anglican Cathedral.
The largest slave market in East Africa operated out of this church courtyard. Embedded into the cobblestone, there are statue re-enactments of chained slaves. Within the exhibition building, you can take a reading tour through the complete timeline of slave history in Zanzibar. This was the official end of the tour.
Due to us getting along so well though, my tour guide offered to take me down to the “cellars” of the church. These cellars held slaves sold in the market. As we approached the entrance, he got really quiet and said that he would let me in on a secret, as long as I didn’t say anything to disrupt the other tourists. I agreed.
What was this ominous secret? No one ever held slaves here. In fact, they didn’t construct the building’s foundation until decades after abolishing slavery. Missionaries used the tiny, stone-carved rooms, which were chilly and dark, for the storage of medicine. But, my guide, let me know that dozens, if not hundreds, of tours take place there daily. This historical fabrication leaves many tourists in tears and the guides profiting. Why did my tour guide want to educate me, but not the broader public?
What is the cost of truth?
Apparently, there are actual slave cellars, but the location is unknown and thought to be on the other side of the island. The guides embellish the story in order to make a wage, in a country where people average $4 USD a day. Regardless of if there is “some” truth in it all, it raises an interesting discussion on the ethics of dark tourism. How many of us unknowingly perpetuate false narratives? Is it really wrong for locals to exploit their own history, in order to survive? What responsibility do we have to truth and should it come at the cost of people’s well-being?
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